Archives for April 2016

Crispy pork tonkatsu smothered with a sweet onion and miso sauce, served with rice and a crunchy apple coleslaw with a ginger and wasabi dressing…

Tonkatsu, or pork katsu (cutlet), is a quintessential Japanese favourite – panko-crumbed pork fried to a crisp golden brown. Tonkatsu is not only tasty but also versatile, and can be served in various guises – simply on its own, on rice bowls, in curries, even in sandwiches.

Although tonkatsu now has a uniquely Japanese identity, turns out it is a more “modern” addition to the Japanese repertoire. Entering the scene in the 1900s, it slowly gained popularity from the 1930s following the growing influence of the West on Japan and the adaptation of Western dishes for the Japanese palate.

Funny how things come full circle – as international cuisine gains popularity round the world, food that was originally imported from the West is now being re-exported back as Japanese food!

This also made me think a little more on the concept of fusion cuisine. Still a relatively new idea from a Western perspective, the idea of fusion cuisine has gained more and more traction over the last few years. However, the approach is often a deliberate attempt to meld two or more (sometimes disparate) cuisines into something that’s perceived as new or exciting. Unfortunately  the danger lies in cases where the approach is fusion for fusion’s sake. In the case of the katsu though, it’s refreshing to see an example of how a relatively simple yet organic approach to incorporating other cuisines can over time create something so integral to the local food culture.

In its “pure” incarnation, tonkatsu is typically served with tonkatsu sauce (a localised version of Worcestershire sauce), fresh cabbage and mustard, alongside the obligatory side of rice. My other favourite way of having tonkatsu is as Katsudon, where a katsu is cooked with egg, onions and sauce and served on top of a bowl of rice.

However, for this recipe we’ve switched it up a bit with a miso-based sauce, a variant that’s found in Nagoya in central Japan, and mixed it with slow-cooked onions in a nod to the Katsudon sauce. The onions are slowly caramelised over 30 – 40 minutes, and mixed in with the miso sauce for sweetness and added texture. It can be quite rich, so I like to add a bit of acidity using balsamic vinegar as it has a bit more complexity and mellowness.

On the subject of tonkatsu itself, the key is a balance between crispy coating and juicy pork. I don’t like the pork to be bashed out too thin, otherwise it can dry out a bit too much.  I’ve also seen some recipes that advocate for double-frying the katsu, while Japanese Soul Cooking advocates for double-breading them.

I was curious, so I had a go at the two variants – the double fry, and the double coat (two dredges in flour and egg plus panko, though I’ve even done two rounds of panko before!). The one on the left is the regular single-coated cutlet which is then fried twice, while the one on the right is the double-coated one, fried just once.

Both versions come out nice and crispy, but as you can see the  double-coated katsu is certainly chunkier, and that’s the version I prefer, because of the added texture the thicker breading provides.

Tonkatsu is usally served with a mound of shredded cabbage, but I’ve pushed the boat out here and served it with a coleslaw-esque mix. I’ve added some shredded green apple because apple and pork are a great match, and dressed it with a wasabi and ginger dressing for some bite against the fried pork.

Slather the miso sauce over the katsu, serve with steamed rice and enjoy!

Recipe adapted from Classic Tonkatsu, pg 65 Japanese Soul Cooking

Tonkatsu with Caramelised Onion and Miso Sauce

Print Recipe

Crispy golden tonkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet) smothered with a miso sauce loaded with sweet caramelised onions, served with rice and crunchy apple coleslaw with a ginger and wasabi dressing

Servings

2 servings

Servings 2 servings

Tonkatsu with Caramelised Onion and Miso Sauce Print Recipe Crispy golden tonkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet) smothered with a miso sauce loaded with sweet caramelised onions, served with rice and crunchy apple coleslaw with a ginger and wasabi dressing Servings 2 servings Servings 2 servings

Ingredients

Caramelised onion and miso sauce

• 350 grams red onions, sliced (2 medium onions)
• 1 small clove garlic (minced)
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 60 mililitres sake (about 1/4 cup)
• 60 mililitres mirin (about 1/4 cup)
• 60 mililitres water (about 1/4 cup)
• 60 grams red miso (about 1/4 cup)
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon ground toasted sesame seeds (about 1 tablespoon)
• 1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar (optional)

Tonkatsu

• 2 pork loin steaks (about 250g total weight)
• 2 eggs
• 30 grams plain flour (1/4 cup)
• 60 grams panko breadcrumbs (1 heaped cup)
• Oil for deep frying
• Salt and ppepper

Apple slaw

• 70 grams cabbage (shredded)
• 70 grams carrot (shredded)
• 20 grams spring onion (sliced into thin strips)
• 1/2 green apple (shredded)

Wasabi Ginger Dressing

• 1/2 teaspoon wasabi
• 1/2 teaspoon ginger, minced
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Servings: servings

Instructions

To make the miso sauce

1. Heat the sesame oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions and fry for a couple of minutes until they start to soften. Add the garlic and then turn the heat down a little and continue to cook over medium-low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring regularly till the onions have browned and softened. At this point, turn the heat down to low, and continue to cook gently for another 10 - 15 minutes until the onions turn a deep brown and sweet. Remove from the heat and set aside.
2. In a small saucepan, mix together the sake, mirin, sugar and water and bring to a simmer. In a small bowl, mix the miso with a couple of tablespoons of the simmered liquid to loosen it, then whisk back in the miso and ground sesame seeds until smooth. Stir in the onions and simmer for a minute or two to let the flavours mix. Taste and add the vinegar if desired. Remove from heat and set aside - warm the sauce again before serving.

To prepare the pork katsu

1. To prepare the pork steaks, flatten them out to about 1cm or just under 1/2 inch thick. If there is a band of fat around the edge of the steaks, cut notches into the fat to prevent the pork curling during frying. Season with salt and pepper and set aside while you prepare the coating components.
2. Beat the eggs in a wide shallow bowl and spread the flour and panko breadcrumbs on two separate plates. Dredge the first pork cutlet in flour on both sides and shake off any excess. Dip both sides of the cutlet into the egg, allowing any excess to drip off, then repeat the flour and egg dredge a second time before coating generously with the panko, pressing down gently to get the crumbs to stick. Repeat the process with the second fillet.

To fry the pork katsu

1. Heat the oil in a wok, skillet or pan to 170°C or 340°F. Once the oil is hot enough, fry the katsu one at a time for about 2 -3 minutes on each side, until they turn a golden brown. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and drain while you fry the second katsu.

To make the slaw and dressing

1. Make the dressing by mixing the all the dressing ingredients together until the sugar dissolves then toss with the shredded vegetables and apple. Plan to serve immediately.
2. Slice the tonkatsu into strips and serve with the sauce on top or on the side as preferred, and serve with steamed rice and the slaw separately.

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